A full spread: tomatoes, falafel, hummus, and khobz! |
Believe it or not, when I left for the Middle East I
didn’t like hummus. I could never quite stomach the texture. So when my
roommates and I stumbled into our first falafel place in Amman, I didn’t have
high hopes. We chose Mota’m Hashem, which calls itself the oldest restaurant in
Amman and, despite its grungy demeanor, is apparently frequented by the Royal
Family. A few blank looks at the waiter as he asked us, in Arabic, what we wanted was all it took to “order,” and soon,
we had before us balls of falafel, steaming cups of chai wa na’na’ (tea
with mint), a plate of onion and tomato slices, hummus, fool (mashed
fava beans), and, to go with it all, freshly-baked khobz, or bread. I
dipped a piece in hummus, added some tomato, and tried it—had I really
not liked this stuff before?? Doused in olive oil and topped with ground up
mint leaves, it became a staple of my diet, along with the falafel I liked to
dip in it!
Arabic mashawii-- note the french fries covering it! |
My food journey continued as I spent more time in Amman.
I tried manakeesh for the first time: half za'atar and half jebnah,
or cheese, spread out over thin bread. I tried a delicious Arabic salad called fattoush,
with cut up cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, and small lemon slices topped with
thin croutons and a light dressing. Another favorite of mine was kubbah,
a ball of minced and spiced meat encased by a fried overcoat. I was lucky
enough to try waraq a’nab in the home of a new Arab friend: she piled
seven or eight of these stuffed grape leaves on my plate, and although my
tongue was overwhelmed at first bite, I soon acquired a taste for the sharply
flavored filling of rice and meat. It was with the same friend, this time
out at a restaurant, that I tried mashawii, or Arabic barbecue:
wonderfully sauced beef kebabs, chicken, and lamb, with grilled onions and
tomatoes to eat with it. And it was best paired with limon wa na’na’, a chilled,
icy blend of lemon juice and pulverized mint leaves.
Limon wa na' na' on a hot day in Amman |
Delicious, delicious kunafa! |
So my question to Al-Bustan readers now is this: Where do I get this food in Philadelphia!? Hazami at Al-Bustan was generous enough to give me some Jordanian za'atar for homemade manakeesh, and I've found falafel mix that you can fry at home to make balls. But what are the best restaurants? I’ve tried Saad's and Manakeesh, right across from each other at 45th and Walnut, and was satisfied with their falafel sandwiches and platters. But what about kubbah, fattoush, and mashawii? Is there anywhere to get limon wa nanah? Can anyone in Philadelphia make kunafa!? If you know of places that I should try out, please let me know in the comments!!
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Amy T. Cass
Al-Bustan Program Assistant
University of Pennsylvania, Class of 2015
International Relations Major